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In general, the interest in health, beauty and well-being is steadily increasing; and, in this context, natural products have been gaining ground in the market. The search for differentiated products, with social and environmental values ??aggregated and healthier, has stimulated the interest of a market that want products that are closer to the primary form in which they are found in nature. This occurs, for example, in food. Increased demand for organic foods, which are grown without the use of synthetic chemicals (such as fertilizers and pesticides), has provided the growth of a market niche that is also reflected in other areas related to the well-being, as the cosmetic area. Products containing active cosmetic of natural origin, capable of providing other beneficial effects, beyond those already offered by traditional synthetic routes, have been gaining a slice of the growing market in recent years.
The cosmetics are generally formulated to provide increased health and beauty of the skin. They have several active agents in their formulation, among which we can mention: retinoids, vitamins, peptides, poly-acids and hydroxides principles extracted from plants (such as polyphenols). These agents have several actions, which may, for example, improve the barrier properties of the stratum corneum, acting as antioxidants, collagen production stimulants, among others. For example, the antioxidants include a variety of agents such as flavonoids, a type of polyphenol found in plants, which generally provides protection against UV rays but also have other actions; that is the case of grape seed extract, which is rich in isoflavones and acts inducing the expression of growth factors in keratinocytes, what is beneficial for the healing of dermal wounds [1].
As we talked in the post "Looking to Amazon," Brazil has a unique position to study the potential of plants in its various applications, due to its enormous natural wealth. Imagine how many resources are present in our forests. How many secrets would keep the exotic fruits, native and characteristics of the Amazon region, as cupuaçu, acerola, bacuri, murici, and various other? The interesting is that many species of the Amazon have been already used by native people long ago, and the knowledge of the powers of nature pass from generation to generation. For example, a chestnut, which in Brazil is only found in the Amazon, is used for various applications: it can be peeled and eaten directly as food or used in the preparation of sweets, ice cream and flour; the oil is used in the manufacture of soaps, creams and shampoos; and the bark is used in the manufacture of medicines.
The union of popular knowledge with scientific analysis certainly will bring benefits. The book Fruitful and Useful Plants in Amazonian Life [2, 3] gives an example that illustrates this relationship: "Glória visited the Department of Chemical Engineering of Federal University of Pará (UFPA) and told a teacher that her mother produced andiroba oil. She explained that her mother left the seeds 30 days muffled to make oil. The teacher immediately responded: 'Do you know how long it takes here in the lab, using solvents and pressing? Only 1 hour!'. Surprised, the lady then asked the teacher if the active ingredients that heal people were still part of the oil obtained by this faster process. He replied that researchers do not yet know. He said some components of the oil obtained by the craft (with long fermentation time) do not appear in the oil produced industrially. Could be these components responsible for the medicinal effect of oil?"
Brazilian biodiversity is rich and waits only for an opportunity to be seized in a broad and rational manner, but rather is necessary to see the wealth that lies in simplicity. We should appreciate the popular wisdom of the region; after all, before science reach, the knowledge of the properties of the plant had been already used by that people and transmitted from generation to generation. The combination of practical experience with scientific methods will surely lead to more effective utilization of the species, as well as the discovery of new applications.
References
[1] Amer M, Maged M. Cosmeceuticals vs pharmaceuticals. Clinics in dermatology. 2009;27(5):428-430;
[2] Shanley P, Medina G. Andiroba. In: Frutíferas e plantas úteis na vida amazônica. 2005;p.41-50;
[3] Shanley P, Medina G. Castanheira. In: Frutíferas e plantas úteis na vida amazônica. 2005;p.61-73.
Picture: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Acerola_Malpighia_glabra.jpg
